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Walking up the hill, we arrive at Camus' old primary school, Ecole Communale at 44, Rue Darwin.It was here that his teacher, Louis Germain, first spotted the boy's talent for writing and eventually helped him obtain a secondary school scholarship.the evening's slight anxiety in a 16-year-old heart."I was 16 when I first read L'Etranger, the same year I first heard Killing An Arab, The Cure's homage to the book.

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We advise against all travel within 30 kilometres of the borders with Libya, Mali, Mauritania, Niger and Tunisia.

There is high risk to your security in the mountainous region of Kabylia and the wilayas (provinces) of Annaba, Béchar, Biskra, El Bayadh, El Taref, Jijel, Khenchela, Laghouat, Skikda, Souk Ahras due to the threat of terrorism, banditry and kidnapping.

He was a guest of Expert Algeria (00 213 554 78 09 95; expertalgeria.com), which offers a five-day "In the Footsteps of Albert Camus" tour, from £895pp, including food, transfers and accommodation, but not flights.

S T Hotel, 4 Rue Mikideche Mouloud, Algiers (00 213 21 63 80 65). Hotel El-Djazair (formerly Hotel Saint-George), 24 Avenue Souidani Boujemaa, Algiers (00 213 21 69 21 21).

Speeding past craggy bays and leathery-looking mountain ranges, we eventually arrive at Tipasa, a Phoenician port 40 miles west of Algiers, and one of Camus' favourite picnic spots as a teenager.

The first-century Roman ruins dotted along this ragged stretch of coastline are impossibly beautiful: Camus wrote about them in his 1952 essay, Return to Tipasa: "Turbulent childhood, adolescent daydreams in the drone of the bus's motor, mornings, unspoiled girls, beaches …A group of soldiers in mirrored sunglasses linger on the corner by the school gates.Later that evening, we sit down for a plate of couscous at Brasserie des Facultés opposite the university campus.As Catherine Camus later explained to me: "Most French writers at that time had access to culture, to books, from an early age. He had to find these things out for himself."Much like downtown Havana, Belcourt's cast-iron balconies, crumbling courtyards and impressive colonial façades, seem to lend themselves to elegant decay. My father spoke to Anna Karina, but I was too shy." Nouredine introduces me to his neighbour, Yahia, who doesn't seem quite as enthusiastic about Belcourt's famous former resident. Like Meursault, he was a pied-noir: a French-speaking native, whose great-grandparents had emigrated from Europe under the French repatriation scheme.Luchino Visconti's 1967 film adaptation of L'Etranger was shot here, and as I sit in Café Tamgout, next to Camus' old home, local resident Nouredine recalled the day the film crews came to town."I remember when Visconti came," he says, throwing back a super-strength espresso. Throughout his life, Camus found it difficult to imagine Algeria as completely independent from France."The academics think they know everything about my father. They are rarely right, actually," giggled Catherine Camus, the daughter of Albert Camus, when I spoke to her over the phone.

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